LaForge's home page (Posts about tracklog)https://laforge.gnumonks.org/blog/tags/tracklog.atom2022-06-21T07:49:57ZHarald WelteNikola(East) European motorbike tour on 20y old BMW F650SThttps://laforge.gnumonks.org/blog/20160817-bike_tour_europe/2016-08-16T16:00:00+02:002016-08-16T16:00:00+02:00Harald Welte<p>For many years I've always been wanting to do some motorbike riding
across the Alps, but somehow never managed to do so. It seems when in
Germany I've always been too busy - contrary to the many motorbike tours
around and across Taiwan which I did during my frequent holidays there.</p>
<p>This year I finally took the opportunity to combine visiting some
friends in Hungary and Bavaria with a nice tour starting from Berlin
over Prague and Brno (CZ), Bratislava (SK) to Tata and Budapeest (HU),
further along lake Balaton (HU) towards Maribor (SI) and finally across
the <a class="reference external" href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grossglockner_High_Alpine_Road">Grossglockner High Alpine Road</a> (AT) to Salzburg and Bavaria before heading back to Berlin.</p>
<img alt="/images/f650st-grossglockner-hochalpenstrasse.jpg" src="https://laforge.gnumonks.org/images/f650st-grossglockner-hochalpenstrasse.jpg">
<p>It was eight fun (but sometimes long) days riding. For some strange
turn of luck, not a single drop of rain was encountered during all that
time, traveling across six countries.</p>
<p>The most interesting parts of the tour were:</p>
<ul class="simple">
<li><p>Along the Elbe river from Pirna (DE) to Lovosice (CZ). Beautiful
scenery along the river valley, most parts of the road immediately on
either side of the river. Quite touristy on the German side, much
more pleasant and quiet on the Czech side.</p></li>
<li><p>From Mosonmagyarovar via Gyor to Tata (all HU). Very little traffic
alongside road '1'. Beautiful scenery with lots of agriculture and
forests left and right.</p></li>
<li><p>The Northern coast of Lake Balaton, particularly from Tinany to
Keszthely (HU). Way too many tourists and traffic for my taste, but
still very impressive to realize how large/long that lake really is.</p></li>
<li><p>From Maribor to Dravograd (SI) alongside the Drau/Drav river valley.</p></li>
<li><p>Finally, of course, the <a class="reference external" href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grossglockner_High_Alpine_Road">Grossglockner High Alpine Road</a>,
which reminded me in many ways of the high mountain tours I did in
Taiwan. Not a big surprise, given that both lead you up to about
2500 meters above sea level.</p></li>
</ul>
<p>Finally, I have to say I've been very happy with the performance of my
1996 model BMW F 650ST bike, who has coincidentally just celebrated its
20ieth anniversary. I know it's an odd bike design (650cc
single-cylinder with two spark plugs, ignition coils and two
carburetors) but consider it an acquired taste ;)</p>
<p>I've also published a <a class="reference external" href="https://laforge.gnumonks.org/map/201608-europe.html">map with a track log of the trip</a></p>
<p>In one month from now, I should be reporting from motorbike tours in
Taiwan on the equally trusted small Yamaha TW-225 - which of course
plays in a totally different league ;)</p>8-day motorbike round-trip in Taiwanhttps://laforge.gnumonks.org/blog/20140921-8day_ride/2014-09-21T03:00:00+02:002014-09-21T03:00:00+02:00Harald Welte<p>
I always wanted to do this during the years I spent more time in Taiwan
(the good old Openmoko days in 2007/2008), but of course never found the
time back then. This year, I finally manged to do it: A motorbike ride
around the island.
</p>
<p>
To be more honest: It was not literally around the island on the coast
line, as I find the west coast not very attractive for a leisure ride:
It is quite densely populated and has lots of industry. I also skipped
the north coast north of Taipei city, as I've been there so many times
before. So in fact, it is a trip from Taipei along the east coast all
the way down south, and returning back north towards Taipei on the
western side of the mountains.
</p>
<p>
You can see (a smplified version) of the GPS track via <a href="https://maps.google.com/maps?q=http:%2F%2Flaforge.gnumonks.org%2Fmisc%2F201409-taiwan-motorbike-tour.simple.kml">Google
maps</a> or also via <a href="https://laforge.gnumonks.org/map/201409-taiwan.html">OpenLayers/Openstreetmap</a>.
</p>
<p>
My biggest doubt in the past was whether I would be able to find
accomodation 'on the go', given my very minimal mandarin language
skills. If you don't know the road conditions, weather, etc. it is hard
to plan all the stops in advance. Also, given that typhoon or
earthquake induced landslides or rockslides are quite common in the
mountains, advance planning is not the preferred option.
</p>
<p>
However, given the quite universal mobile wireless data coverage and a
smartphone, I was able to always book the next accomodation (1 day in
advance) using popular booking websites such as agoda.com or
booking.com. This worked quite good, except in the rare case where
those websites get the address/location of the hotel/homestay completely
wrong.</p>
Regarding the trip itself:
<ul>
<li><b>Day 1: Taipei to Hualien</b>
<p>
I don't even remember how often I have taken provincial highway 9 from
Xindian (south of downtown Taipei) through the mountains to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yilan_County,_Taiwan">Yilan</a>
before. It must be the road that I travelled most frequently. What was
different this time is that the departure was on a weekend, so there
were literally hundreds of motorbike riders on the track. Also,
interestingly, in virtually every curve there was at least one
photographer taking pictures of the motorbikers.
</p>
<p>
(Side note: I usually avoid leaving the hotel/apartment over the
weekend, as Taiwan is simply to crowded. Doing any kind of travel,
sightseeing or even going out for dinner is almost bound for a
disappointment on saturday or sunday).</p>
<p>Having travelled 'number 9' many times still doesn't make it a less
interesting mountain ride, with plenty of serpentines and marvellous
views, particularly when you can first see the coastline from high up in
the mountains. I'm also quite familiar with the coastal provincial
highway 8 down to the entry of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taroko_National_Park">Taroko
Gorge</a>, along the steep cliffs, passing the various industrial
harbours and cement factories as well as the numerouns tunnels along the
road.
</p>
<p>The remaining kilometers down from Taroko towards <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hualien_City">Hualien</a> go much
faster than anticipated, as it is suddenly quite flat terrain and a wide
(two lane per direction) road that permits 60/70kph. The latter doesn't
sound like much, but it is a lot, compared to the 30/40kph limits in
the mountain roads.
</p>
<p>Accomdoation at a hotel inside Hualien city. Nice and clean room,
close to the shore. However, difficult to actually get to the shore as
a pedestrian, and aside from concrete bricks (to break the waves)
there's really not anything. No natural coastline, no rock or sand
beach, nothing.</p>
<p>
What was worth noticing where two anglers who were actually using a
quadrocopter to take their hooks/bait way further off the shore than you
would be able to achieve with manual casting of the fishing rod. I have
no insight into current angling practises. To mee it seemed quite
high-tech / nerdy / sophisticated ;)
</p>
</li><li><b>Day 2: Hualien to Taitung County</b>
<p></p>
<p>Accomdoation at <a href="https://www.agoda.com/lehuo-shoudo-moli-homestay/hotel/taitung-tw.html">Lehuo Shoudo Moli Homestay</a></p>
</li><li><b>Day 3: Staying in Taitung County</b>
<p>We actually liked the location (and the "private beach") so much that
we decided to stay for an extra night.</p>
<p>Accomdoation at <a href="https://www.agoda.com/lehuo-shoudo-moli-homestay/hotel/taitung-tw.html">Lehuo Shoudo Moli Homestay</a></p>
</li><li><b>Day 4: Taitung to Kenting</b>
<p></p>
<p>Accomdoation at <a href="https://www.agoda.com/miami-hostel/hotel/kenting-tw.html">Miami Hostel</a></p>
</li><li><b>Day 5: Kenting to Pingtung</b>
<p></p>
</li><li><b>Day 6: Pingtung to Chiayi</b>
<p></p>
<p>Accomdoation at <a href="https://laforge.gnumonks.org/J/www.agoda.com/tea-homestay/hotel/chiayi-tw.html">Tea Homestay</a></p>
</li><li><b>Day 7: Chiayi via Alishan and Yushan and Sun Moon Lake to Taichung</b>
<p></p>
<p>Accomdoation at <a href="https://www.agoda.com/sky-villa/hotel/taichung-tw.html">Sky Villa</a></p>
</li><li><b>Day 8: Taichung to Taipei</b>
</li></ul>